Powertrax 2210-LR Lock-Right (Dana 30)

Installed in a 8.5 10 bolt open carrier. Went into a c10 with 5.3 4L60 and 275/60/15s. Install was breeze, just go read Motortrends install write up and it’s smooth. I was able to push the springs in the just my fingers and it went fine. I did install with the ring gear on but out of the truck, but doing it while still in the carrier wouldn’t be an issue either. TIPS FOR C CLIP AXLES—Just be patient, work the axles back and forth while holding clips in and you will eventually get the spacers in to cover the clips. I used a knife in the center, it’s a pain in the a..but keep working with it. I used 2.25ish quarts of 80w90 Lucas, I do have turndowns but I heard the clicking a couple times but nothing bad. If you’re around 10ish percent throttle, you may can take a sharp corner while clicking but it could lock halfway through. Again, not bad, I dig it actually. Second, when you let off the throttle, then get back on it, it may feel a little odd..a shimmy maybe but you don’t even have to touch the wheel. It’s not bad at all. If you’re getting this for the street, I strongly recommend just be sure to understand the trade offs ( chirping sometimes, a clunk or two some, clicking) If it’s chirping in a corner, it’s very easy to just throttle up a bit and it’ll spin on up easier than you think. Just don’t fear a locker, get it! I will update if any issues arise.

Easy install. Have not used it offroad yet.

The media could not be loaded. Pros -it works great off road and in the snow, totally locks the diff up, easy to install. IMPORTANT axle end play specs, set them right!! Wife drives the vehicle and doesn’t notices it. on road works well also.Cons - install manual sucks, clunky at times, hard on tires.It is easy to install. Unfortunately in the Chrysler 9 1/4 diff I installed this on came with Posi case. And the original part I ordered was the one for the Posi case. I didn’t fit, called tech support to verify I had the right part, they were quick to help. Unfortunately I had to order this locker along with new open case $135 new spider gear set $70 “just for the shims” the backlash adjustment tool $25 bearing set $100, fee to get the bearing pressed on $40, and backlash gauge for $30. I installed this on a 1999 Durango 4wd. The installed required a lot more work also had to weld the abs/speed tone ring to the case because when installing the original ring gear to the new open case. The tone ring had enough clearance to spin free. Time consuming and annoy. But the locker works fantastic. On road it’s mildly noticeable clicking around turns and clunky at times. But overall not a big deal, my wife drives the Durango often and has never complained about it.Video upload was with vehicle in 2wd.

I have a 1998 Toyota T100, 4x4 with the 8.4 axle. I was looking for a new solution to replace my stock open differential once it finally gave up after 26 years of solid use. Came across this PowerTrax 1615-LR Lock-Right Differential Lock Assembly. $300+ was a good price. Locks up in off road use and should lock/unlock on the street. Easy installation. Had a shop look over my work and they said it looked good.Seemed to work pretty good the first 2 months. Did the break in period, swapped out the diff oil. Did everything you're supposed to do. Then I started to get some slamming coming out of the rear differential. Felt like someone was crashing into the back of my truck. Asked many of knowledgable people about how these worked and if that kind of clacking and punching was common and they all said, "Yea. Those things are notorious for all kinds of weird sounds and actions." So I continued to use it. Well, as of 10/25/24 (8 months since I bought it), I'm replacing it with an electronic locker. As you can see from the picture, all the teeth are rounded off and the pins and springs seats are broken.Showed the gear and axle shop my differential and they said that this is common for these kinds of lockers.

Not as straightforward as it would seem.. this is for Jeep Cherokee XJ with 8.25 rear axle..1) C clip must be modified to be reinstalled on passenger side, the lockers teeth are narrower than the width of the C clip.2) Shims on either side must be removed as with them in place, the opening is narrower than the thickness of the C clip which prevents re-install of the C clip.Once you get through those two items, it goes in fairly well.

This went in just fine according to the instructions. The most difficult part is getting the last c-clip in place but overall it's not terrible. I'd rate this as a 4/10 difficulty, with the majority of any difficulty coming from the overall effort of lifting the vehicle, removing wheels, removing gaskets, etc. Nothing terrible, just somewhat time consuming.In operation it works extremely well. Under power your rear wheels are locked, so be careful on corners and on wet streets. You have to drive a bit carefully in the corners once installed. This will cause your rear end to fight you a little bit, so if you're putting this in a rig intended primarily for road use then you're probably better served to go after a detroit locker. In operation, the only time I've been able to hear it click audible is when driving through a parking deck. It's hardly noticible. And offroad it's killer. It keeps power turning to both wheels and you can crawl up stuff easily where you'd normally spin a wheel (assuming tires aren't your limiting factor).Not sure why these are referred to as "lunchbox" lockers. I know the general description means that you can install one over your lunch break...yeah right. Or perhaps I get too short of a lunch break, but this took me 3-4 hours on a Saturday. Not working exceptionally fast, but being careful and methodical.

Writing the review to let folks know that some Dana 80’s have 37 splines. Like my 1999 Ford F-450 with manual transmission and 7.3. This locker has 35 splines. I rarely notice this locker in my 2001 Dodge. Except for some hopping in deep sand and, of course, much better traction.