eXtremeRate Textured White Lofty Programable Remap & Trigger Stop Kit, Upgrade Boards & Redesigned Back Shell & Side Rails & Back Buttons & Trigger Lock for Xbox One S/X Controller Model 1708

Other reviews have mentioned negatives that I hope to reverse for others.tl:dr (not in order)-takes competency/patience to install correctly-stupid easy to use/remap-snip the front corner of the trigger stops to stop it from catching-negative reviews speak more to user error (IMO)-fantastic product, worth getting, even over an Elite Series 21. "Difficult to remap the buttons" - simply not the case. It's incredibly easy. The easiest way is to use the Touch Sensor. Simply hold your finger over it and it will enter settings mode. Hold the back-button you'd like to map as well as the button you'd like it to mimic (simultaneous hold). The light blinks three time. Hold the Touch Sensor again, it exits settings mode. Done. I however opt to de-solder the Touch Sensor. Like other reviews mentioned it tends to be activated by simply resting your fingers on the back-button. So the alternative method is: Hold LB+RB+View (View is what used to be Select). It enters settings mode. Hold back-button and the button you want it to mimic. It blinks. Hold LB+RB+View, it exits settings mode. Couldn't be any easier. Check out their YouTube video for visual learning.2. The biggest issue I have had with this kit is that when setting the triggers to full travel, they catch on something. It's infuriating. After hours and days of messing with it I finally narrowed it down. The pictures included show what I mean when I say: The trigger stop mechanisms have a corner that's in the way. I simply cut off the corner and they work perfectly. I tried to cut off as little as possible. As you can see in the picture the downside to this is that when viewing the trigger stop slider from the bottom there is now a "hole" whereas before it was just more slider. I have no intention of staring at the bottom of my controller so it makes zero difference whatsoever for me other than now it's fully functional.3. Installation can be tricky. You really need to have some soldering experience when doing this. Otherwise, proceed at your own risk (obviously). I recommend an adjustable temp soldering iron. I use one with a digital display and keep my temp at 425 C. The new circuitry doesn't like to lay perfectly flat so when soldering I usually wind up with a few joints that sort of hover over the point, causing an insecure connection. I typically just put s little more solder on the joint and then gently push down on the circuitry with tweezers as I re-melt the solder until it joins properly. They also have a troubleshoot video on their YouTube.4. I have no issues with the buttons being "hard to press" so I'm not sure what to say there. They have a nice tactile feel to them and I've had no miss-presses or anything similar.5. Lofty Remap and Hair Triggers compared to an Elite Series 2.Hair Triggers: If I put numbers on them (made up numbers, only relevance is the comparison) I'd say if the ES2 is a 2/5ths pull, the Lofty Remap Hair Triggers are a 3/5ths pull. The ES2 are slightly better but Stock travel vs. this kit's travel is a big improvement. Also IIRC the installation video shows them installing the stop mechanisms on the opposite sides lol the vertical post should go towards the front on the controller (towards the bumpers).The back-buttons: Honestly, even though I have the option for four buttons ("paddles") on the ES2 I only use two of them anyway. Jump and crouch. As far as feel, it's definitely a different button press feeling but my ES2 buttons wore out incredibly quick. haven't tested this enough to know how long they'll last but being that they are normal tactile momentary switches, even is they don't last, they're very easily replaceable (they even include an extra pair). For clarity, I love the way these buttons feel.6. Why choose this kit over an Elite Series 2.One word: Customization. While I love my ES2 it comes in one color option. Black with dark gun-metal. I'm a sucker for monochromatic and simple, dark aesthetics, but having the option to make a fully custom controller AND make it as functional as an ES2? Sign me up. I am starting to see custom faceplates and the like for ES2 controllers but I'm a lot more comfortable (and IMO it's a lot easier) working on a $60 controller rather than a $180 controller... FYI I've taken my ES2 apart and while it's a lot less intimidating than I thought it'd be, I did crack my housing doing so (user error obviously but still relevant).7. Issues. I, like another reviewer, couldn't get any LEDs to light up on my test board. I checked and checked and still nothing. I kept trying however and eventually I got a solid connection that lit up the boards, save for the other connections I needed to fix. Honestly, the hard truth of the matter is that those reviews are user error. If your whole board doesn't light up it's one or both of those points. If only one LED isn't lighting up its either A: that connection isn't good, even if you think it is or B: that LED is bad. IF that LED is bad, the controller will still work so if the LED doesn't light up and your controller still doesn't function properly, it's not a bad LED... Also worth noting that one reviewer mentioned their D-Pad locking up... This kit has NOTHING to do with the D-Pad other than you can map the buttons to it so if after installing this there is an issue with your D-Pad, more than likely its a bridged connection somewhere.Summary. This is NOT a paid or incentivized review in any way. They didn't reach out, I didn't get a prompt from Amazon, this is simply because I honestly think this is a fantastic product and hope to help anyone else having issues or questions. While it is entirely possible to receive faulty products I do believe that when it comes to soldering projects it's more often than not user error (I speak from experience lol).Hope this helps somebody!

I really wanted to like this product. The first one I got had a test board that would not light up at all. In the instructions it says to check two points and if they are good go to a website if this happens to see what to do, but their was nothing on the website. I then removed it from the board to return it and that just breaks your controller. The second one the test board worked great ( I had to buy another new controller ). I solder it all up and everything tested good. After a half hour or so the controller wants to register the d-pad clicking right , when I'm not even touching it. If I let the controller sit for a bit it works again for a little bit. I took it apart and all test lights light up that everything is good. Save you time and money and just buy an elite controller.

The media could not be loaded. EASY INSTALL - if you can solder! Great function, I have this installed with the LEDS.Before I rip Razer controllers, I'll mention these trigger stops with this package do not function as well as theirs. Razer trigger stops, when engaged, still count as a full trigger pull. These only count as pulling the trigger as far as the lock lets you! This works great for shooters, but terrible on games like Rocket League where you're stuck at max half throttle. However, a shorter throw is counter productive when using the variability of the trigger (you wouldnt want trigger stops in Rocket League,) so this doesn't really lose any points in my book.Now... to rip on Razer. For the money they get, they should be bullet proof but...I now have what I consider a far superior device then either my prior Razer Wolverine Tournament's AND Wolverine V2's after installing these two kits from eXtremeRate (LEDS AND Back Buttons/trigger stops)! Multiple Razer controllers were broken, warrantied or when expired, deconstructed personally and analyzed for damage. The original Xbox controllers never break on me! SO, here we are. They have TERRIBLE engineering in the Razer Controller, terrible quality tactile switches, and fulcrums/actuators for such (mainly their bumpers and back buttons. So bad that they cant even stick to a design between their different controllers...Their cheaper one's actually built better...)AND ITS WIRELESS OR WIRED unlike the prior mentioned controllers. I then update the firmware to use seamlessly between my pc and my Xbox. This is not possible on the wired controllers.The tactile switches and buttons that come with this and the fashion in which they are situated is simple and magnificent in quality. They're literally 3x bulkier than any single tactile switch in the Razer contollers. And they way they're situated, even if you break them (all tactile switches have a lifespan...) they will take 3 seconds to replace with your new experience in dissecting xbox controllers. (The color is great, but I cannot yet speak to the long term durability of the paint on them?)With the Customization of each zone of color with the LEDS, even having a strobe and gradient, no other controller will look like yours when you're done. You cannot buy something that cool.Might even be worth trying even if you cant solder if you have spare controllers or ones that need repair etc.I am going to request they add a few different rear button shapes! Would be easy to swap and make this out of this world. That and sticker grips or thicker options