2 Pack Wireless Controller 2.4G double shock Compatible with PS2 /PS1/PC(Jet Black)

Frees a player up from wires & extends distance from console. Controller is easy to sync with the receiver, which plugs into the console. Receivers plug into any USB "A" socket to charge; controller runs on two AA batteries. Controller is an excellent copy of the OEM wired units, including force feedback. Significant improvement.

So what's most important to know is I bought these controllers to use with my PS1 (remember PS2 devices are backwards compatible with PS1 devices thonps2 saves can only be saved on PS2 memory cards and likewise with PS1 memory cards) that I just had an xstation installed on. I also ordered on ebay an official Sony PS3 controller for my PS3 but that turned out to not work at all and it wasn't listed as broken, for parts only, or as untested. Needless to say it didn't work at all when plugged into my PS3. So I thought to myself....hmm these have a USB adapter on the wireless dongle.....I wonder if it will work on my PS3, let's not forget I haven't even tested the controllers at all yet as I'm still waiting for my modified PS1 to return (it's currently in the mail). Low and behold after plugging this into my PS3 and putting some batteries in it it works.....the mode button functions as the ps button but it actually works. Granted using a USB port on my backwards compatible PS3 isn't my ideal solution because it needlessly uses USB ports....but I wanted to play my PS3 and this works in a pinch not to mention it seems so far (haven't tested it to much yet) to work well...I could care less about rumble features especially in a wireless controller that uses batteries (I feel it wasted battery life). I will update my review if anything changes I just wanted it to be know that I bought it to use for intentions it's not even advertised for but also seems to work with devices I didn't expect (my PS3).

I have been buying controllers for my PS1 and PS2 recently, because I just got into modding them back around christmastime. For context, I bought these controllers to replace my old very worn out first-party controllers as well as the stopgap solution of OPL's compatibility settings for PS4 controllers via PADEMU. These controllers are quite nice for the price; they have a very good weight in the hand (the reason why i bought them was because I didn't see any reviews complaining about lightness) The buttons are relatively tight; they have a tiny bit of play in them. The springs in the shoulder buttons are on the light side. The sticks are good; they send digital inputs when analog mode is off, meaning that up on the left stick is equivalent to up on the D-pad (and, funnily, up on the right stick is equivalent to pressing triangle). This is very nice for games like Street Fighter EX3, which for unknowable reasons does not have analog support. However, it should be noted that the sticks are taller than a first-party controller; it's not a Wii Classic controller, but it is definitely a difference. I think this boils down to personal preference. The surface finish is going to be the deciding factor for a lot of people, I think; these controllers have a shiny finish that immediately becomes a mess of fingerprints. It doesn't bother me, but it could bother other people. With regard to connectivity, these controllers are a dream. input lag isn't noticeably worse than any other wireless controller I've used. They aren't bluetooth, but rather when the receiver is connected to a PS1, PS2, or PC, when a controller is turned on it connects automatically. The controllers turn on with a small mechanical switch tucked between the sticks, and will go to sleep after a while to save battery; pressing start or cycling the power will reconnect the controller. I have had these for 4 weeks and have been using them for around an hour most days after work; I haven't needed to change the batteries yet. The product comes with two controllers and two receivers, and whichever controller is turned on first will connect to player one. This works seamlessly on PS2. HOWEVER: these controllers have an issue with the PS1. With one controller plugged in everything works perfectly, zero complaints. But when I try and plug both of them into the same PS1, they seem to both try and connect on the same channel and the result is both controllers stop working. This is frustrating, and has led me to purchase another controller for the PS1 for the purpose of multiplayer. To their credit, the manufacturer doesn't advertise PS1 compatibility so this is probably an known issue. As of writing this, I haven't tried using two of these controllers hooked up to the same laptop via their built-in USB dongle, but I can't imagine that would have any issues. On PC they are detected as a PS3 controller, and I played one game (super monkey ball on Dolphin) as a test and they worked fine. So altogether: these are solid controllers for the PS2, strongly recommend for that purpose; If you want them for PS1, watch out as you functionally only have one controller on original hardware.

LOVE THESE. I game on every platform, and PC. These work perfectly on my PS2, PS3 and PC exactly as advertised. Plug and play with no issues. On PC, I didn’t need to use the included driver. My PC and steam recognized it as a PS3 controller. IMPORTANT NOTES: The included instructions have a few errors in grammer and don't explain everything. So here is some extra tips: After a few minutes of no input (like 3-5 minutes) the Controller will turn off. This is great to safe battery life, but it's not noted in the instruction manual. If this happens, just press the start button and the controller will turn back on. Pairing can be annoying if you don't do it in sequence. Plug in one of the dongles, then a controller and turn it on. make sure the lights are no longer blinking and the green one is lit on the controller. Then do the same for player 2. If you just turn on both controllers at the same time, you may get player 2 paired with the player 1 dongle or even both to the same receiver. For PC users, make SURE to use proper controller configs. I've played Mortal Kombat 11 for about 60 hours now with these, and whenever I boot up the game the right analog stick defaults to buttons, so pressing to the right acts as the 'B' button (Mortal Kombat is set up for only keyboard or Xbox controllers). So in this case, I had to download the config for a PS3 controller. So 30 seconds of labor to get the controller to play correctly Only issue is that some games on Steam require controller comfiguration, but that’s true for anything on Steam. Also LOVE the shiny smooth plastic. Highly recommend

The controllers arrived quickly. The controllers feel a little on the lighter side,but the build quality is actually really good considering the price. They worked for ps2 and connected to their receivers every time. Sometimes it would have problems connecting to the receiver,but was solved by just removing and reinserting the receiver from the slot. The analog sticks were great quality and the sensitivity was even up there with oem! They had a very little dead zone. Even worked for ps3!

Works as intended. Beware of dropping, husband dropped one of the controllers on the floor by accident and now that one controller doesn't work. Greatful it was a 2 pack.

But there is no force feedback function. A the other buttons are there, including the analog L3 R3 buttons, which have a nice, crispy click. Worth the money, futs nicely in the hands. Aside from no force feedback, these are good substitutes for the original PS2 controllers. Recommended (unless you're wanting force feedback)

I wanted to give a technical review of these Blue Lake Performance controllers to see how they truly hold up against a genuine Sony controller. The software I used to check the Blue Lake Performance controllers on a SCPH-39001 Playstation 2 console is a program called padtest.elf (by jbit). I also used the USB game pad settings tool built into Windows 10 to better visulize the analog stick movement. For my baseline I am using a genuine Sony SCPH-10010 dual shock 2 controller. Black Sony SCPH-10010 dual shock 2: All buttons pressure sensitive and very progressive from 0-255: square, X, O, triange, L1, L2, R1, R2, and D-pad Both joysticks are very progressive in all directions and reach 0 and 255 at end of travel. Sony joysticks have NO dead zone and immediately pickup the slightest pressure. Neutral position of analog sticks: RX 118; RY 119 LX 126; LY 130 Blue Lake-Controller 1 Controller powered up and paired fine. After shutting off, controller will not power back up. Taking batteries out and reinstallaing immediately does not remedy situation. (If I put the batteries into controller 2, they work fine.) I appears if I let the controller sit for about 10 minutes and reinstall the batteries, then it will power up. I repeated this issue twice. This already makes the controller unusable as far as i'm concerned, but i proceeded with testing anyhow. For the record I tried 2 different sets of 1.5V-1.6V new batteries as well. Pressure sensitivity of square, X, O, traingle, L1, L2, R1, R2 and D-pad work well as compared to Sony. Very progressive changes from 0-255 bits when increasing pressure. Neutral position of analog sticks: RX 128; RY 127 (good) LX 128; LY 127 (good) Both joysticks have a large deadzone until movement is detected compared to Sony. See diagram for reference. RX left: reaches 0 bits (full output) halfway through its physical range of travel (bad) This results in snappy and instant movements when not intended. RX right: reaches 255 (full output) bits slightly early before end of travel (bad) . RY up: reaches 0 bits early, before end of travel. (bad) RY down: reaches 255 bits early, before end of travel. (bad) LX left: reaches 0 bits slightly early before end of travel (bad) LX right: reaches 255 slightly early before end of travel (bad) LY up: reaches 0 bits slightly early before end of travel (bad) LY down: reaches 0 bits slightly early before end of travel (bad) Blue Lake- Controller 2 Controller powered up and paired fine. Pressure sensitivity of square, X, O, traingle, L1, L2, R1, and R2 work well as compared to Sony. Very progressive changes from 0-255 bits when increasing pressure. D-pad DOWN and RIGHT rate of increase to 255 is proper (good) however UP and LEFT is nearly instantaneous (bad) Neutral position of analog sticks: RX 128; RY 127 (good) LX 128; LY 127 (good) RX left: reaches 0 bits halfway through its movement (bad) This results in snappy and instant movements when not intended. RX right: reaches 255 bits fine and close to its end of travel (good) RY up: reaches 0 bits early, before end of travel. (bad) RY down: reaches 255 bits early, before end of travel. (bad) LX left: reaches 0 bits halfway through its movement (bad) This results in snappy and instant movements when not intended. LX right: reaches 255 bits fine and close to its end of travel (good) LY up: reaches 0 bits slightly early, before end of travel. (bad) LY down: reaches 255 bits slightly early, before end of travel. (bad) Rumble: The vibration output of the Blue Lake controllers is about half as strong of the Sony. (I tested the controllers side by side in Burnout Revenge while tapping walls.) Using the USB game pad configuration tool on Windows 10, the joystick movement visually looks snappy and abrupt; not smooth and progressive like the Sony. It appears the rate of output of the joystick used in these controllers does not match the rate of Sony. The deadzone of the analog sticks is also very large compared to the Sony which have literally no deadzone. The problem is the movement of the Blue Lake joysticks are detected late and reach full output (0 or 255 bits depending on direction) before the joystick physically runs out of travel. This tells me the potentiometers used do not have the same rate of increase/decrease but they also don't have the same range of output either as there are large deadzones at the end of travel of the joysticks as well. See diagram to better understand this. This will be interpreted by the user as very sensitive joysticks with little or no "analog" feel to them. Lastly when moving the joysticks in a circle, the output seen in the USB gamepad settings tool in Windows 10 shows the output not moving in a circle. When transitioning from UP motion to LEFT motion for example, the UP signal will move to center before LEFT input is even registered. What this tells me is the deadzones are not equal for X and Y registered movement. This might not be detected by the player unless performing special moves in a fighting game where similar kind of joystick motion is common. The button rate of increase is a good match except for a couple of the D-pad directions in the 2nd controller. I'd also like to point out that these controllers are gloss black which shows every single finger print. There is a reason the Sony controller, TV remotes, computer peripherals, Etc. are matte black texture. In summary with Controller 1 having a powering up issue and the analog sticks not being even a relatively close match (to Sony) to properly play any game that uses the analog stick (most PS2 games) I cannot recommend these as a suitable OEM Sony controller replacement. NOTE: Amazon reviews seems to have an error and no longer allows photo uploads.