Vetark Fluke Solve Aquarium, 10 g

I agree with reviews that the packing is a tad awkward to get to the product. Fix the ladle to the end of a spoon handle with tape, problem solved. Make stock solution of 250ml tank water with one full ladle of powder which is one gram of product. Add 1ml of stock per liter of tank water volume (including water volume in a canister filter). Remove all chemical filtration media from filter and any soft porous rocks which can also absorb meds, with only sponges and floss remaining. No need to turn off UV lights. Within 4 days existing flukes should be dead. It's recommended to1. Keep the chemical in the tank for three weeks, 2. Keep level of product the same by replacing product in all water used for water changes. 3. In three weeks time redose. 4. Maintain product in water at same concentration for a further three weeks. ...This is to kill off any eggs in the tank. Unless there is a need for a further dose then return the chemical filtration products to the filter. That's it. I've just started the process and will update. This is after over two months using other products that have not worked to cure flicking. Goldfish diseases are very hard to diagnose. Colder temperature water makes for longer parasite life cycles. I've introduced a heater and am now keeping them at 25 C. These are fancy goldfish with no sign of what's been causing the problem. This product is my last option. This powder-based freshly made solution ensures the product is potent and not possibly degraded by a long shelf life in a shop or damaged by temperatures or conditions in export journeys etc that could affect pre-bottled solutions. UPDATE day 11 and they have stopped flicking, but one fish is hiding all the time and not eating. Total life cycle of egg laying flukes is much shortened by keeping the goldfish at a higher temperature using a heater. The egg maturation cycle can be reduced to as little as four days after the parasites on the fish are killed ...which is usually within 48 hrs once the praziquantel is fully dissolved and activated -- that activation of this product takes two days, then this product is at optimum potency, within the next 2 days adult parasites will be gone. I found that it was not necessary to maintain the product in the water for the recommended total of six weeks. After the flicking stopped one fish was very poorly and did not eat and stayed in hiding. After 12days with the product still in the water I returned chemical filter media, did a 50 % water change and used a tonic salt at the minimum dosage of one gram per litre of tank water. After three days his behaviour then returned to normal. Still no flicking, and he's swimming and eating normally. This stuff definitely works if other treatments fail. But keep a close eye on the fish. If they seem off-colour but not flicking then after about two weeks do what I did, but be aware that without a heater the egg laying stage may be quite long and the parasite may reinfect. So after a break in treatment a redose might be needed. FINAL UPDATE. NOW THREE WEEKS AFTER FIRST DOSE. FLICKING STOPPED SOON AFTER PRODUCT FIRST INTRODUCED. Apparently it can take 5 to 8 weeks for fish to fully recover from fluke attack. The fish in hiding and not eating has fully recovered after using aquarium tonic salt at a minimum dosage, after putting the salt in it is now out of hiding and eating normally. I recommend this product. I did not need to redose after 3 weeks, perhaps because I used a heater to shorten the life cycle of the egg to adult fluke stage. if you have a pond probably a redose would be needed. UPDATE. It is about a year since I used this after all standard meds had failed. The flicking has gone and did not return, and the one fish who was most affected is now perfectly healthy...

I'll try to keep updating this review as the treatment process goes on, but initial thoughts are positive. I suspected a Fluke infection in my community tank as my guppies had started flicking/flashing against the sand and plants. After a few days of observation I confidently ruled out water parameter issues and strongly suspected that it wasn't Ich or Velvet as there weren't any of the other telltale signs. Day 1. I administered the dosage at midday by taking out a jugful of aquarium water and mixing in the provided 2.5ml scoopful of treatment. This should treat 250l of aquarium water, as my tank is about 125l, once the powder was all dissolved, I poured in half of the solution. This was the only way I could think of getting the dosage at the time as my 'high precision scales' were acting up. I've since discovered that her-indoors has a wonderful set of kitchen measuring spoons, one of which is 1.25ml (half of the provided 2.5ml scoop) so will use that to adminsiter the 2nd dosage. Within 4 hours the flicking seems to have stopped completely already, so the treatment seems to be fast acting and effective. It did initially cloud the water slightly, but this cleared within 15 minutes. Initial thoughts on the product itself are good, but who on earth thought that packaging 10g of powered treatment in a sachet that measures almost 15x25cm and provide you with a measuring spoon with a 1.5cm 'handle' was in anyway a good idea or helpful to the end user? Day 4. All flicking/flashing behaviour seems to have stopped completely now. I've made up a bottle of 'stock solution' (2.5ml scoop of treatment to 1l of water), which I can use to replenish the dosing when carrying out my regular water changes at a rate of 4ml of stock solution per litre added to the tank. This stock mix does settle out, so it needs a good shake prior to measuring out. I also added the appropriate amount of my dechlorinator to the solution (I don't know if this is required, but thought it better than not using it). Seeing as the treatment is supposed to remain active for 3 weeks, I see no reason why this ready mixed solution can't be kept on hand for the duration of the 1st treatment. I'll discard it and remix for water changes during the 2nd treatment period, mixing it when carrying out the 1st water change should mean it remain active for the total period.

It works. I use a precision 0.001g scale for measuring it. No issues.

I've bought female dwarf gouramis from Pets at Home and I've noticed white stringy poop. Immediately I've ordered this product, it arrived quite late due to amazon logistics issue but once it arrived I was able to treat the fish. It worked almost immediately. - For 20litre of water / 5Gallons I have used: 1) 0.065grams of powder and mixed that into the water. 2) I have wiped my jewelry scale using flake food basically infusing the flakes with praziquantel and fed that directly to the fish (they ate it ASAP, huge appetite the gourami have!) About 2 hours later the poop was still stringy but with a bit of red, I have assumed that was intestinal bleeding from the worms being detached from the intestines but I didn't want to risk it so I got Levimasole (bird dewormer) to treat for Callamanus worm just to be on the safe side. 4 days later they were moved back into the main tank with normal poop. (the normal poop starts showing about 3-4days later). (I have removed all filters but kept the water pump to keep the water moving as praziquantel doesn't dissolve in water perfectly and the particles in the water need to move around so it doesn't fall to the bottom.) Pro tip: NO SUBSTRATE IN THE QUARANTINE TANK, it makes it harder to clean the poop as the poop contains temporarily paralized worms and eggs, if you do not remove them from the tank the fish might nib the poop and inhale the worms back in, thus restarting the vicious circle.

For those struggling to measure micro doses: Use the scoop to measure out 1g and add to 1 litre of tank water Then add in mL the desired dose. Eg I have a 76L tank. 1g = 250 litres. So divide 1/250 = 0.004. Multiply this number by your tank volume. For me this is 0.304 So I now add 304mL (or 0.304L) to my tank to give the correct dose Does mean you waste some but more precise and accessible than trying to measure without a micro balance. Otherwise great product - fish much happier within 24 hours and hasn’t affected shrimp.

Very good I've used this for years works well

I have only just received this product so I don;t know how effective it will be. However the packet it comes in is huge compared to the amount of powder it contains making it very difficult to measure out the required amount with the little measuring spoon supplied.Why such a big sachet ????

My fish were flashing, increased respiration, listlessness, tears to the fins and body and just generally acting up. I diagnosed this as skin flukes. I followed the standard dosage by mixing up 1 gram in a litre of water and dosing 600ml for my 150 litre injected co2 planted aquarium. Within hours of dosing this medication there were visible improvements. Flashing didn't stop immediately (likely due to irritation to the skin). Fish were acting completely fine within 48 hours. No damage to biological filtration or plants. Important for any invert keepers: I dosed the other 400ml in my 100+ cherry shrimp (plus nerite snails) tank and they showed no negative responses to the medication. No losses and they acted like nothing happened. The makers do not explicitly say this med is safe for shrimp and snails but mine were fine with it. Yours may be different! I could not more positively recommend this medication enough if you're having problems with flukes/gill worms.