ACCEL 140033 Ignition SuperCoil , Yellow

I used this to replace my coils on a 2004 ford F150, 165K miles. My truck began to sputter at highway speeds. A little online research pointed to the coils being bad. At the time, I also changed my spark plugs since waiting to the 100k since the last change wouldn't fly (read problems with 2004 f150 plugs). Anyway, I changed both plugs and coils and my truck has run flawlessly, without the sputtering problems. In case you wonder if the plugs made the difference or the coils... All the plugs were evenly worn, and none were more burned up than the rest. I also was able to pull out the plugs (autolites HT1) without any of them breaking like the oems did. Therefore, I believe the problem was in the coil. FYI.. For those who say you can check the resistance in the coil to identify a bad one.. Keep in mind that the coils resistance changes with the temperature as they coil down. So you will not get repeatable readings until the coils are fully cooled. And even then, a cooled off coil may not indicate if its bad or good, like when the coil is hot under load. To better understand that, you need to be an electrician or understand the assembly and inner workings of coil under a load. The coils came in individually packaged boxes, all packed into one bigger Accel box. Accel has been around for quite a long time, and at $205 dollars with Amazon prime, it definetly was worth the price.. It would have cost me $75 to take to a shop to find the bad coil, and another $75 to replace just one. So it was $150 for the exact known coil to replace if it was just one coil, or for $205 replace them all since they had 165K Miles anyway. So I choose to replace all of them. I definately recommend these coils and replacing all of your coils if you have high miles and are replacing any of them anyway.. Good luck!

I have to first post the very negative review I posted for the cheap brown unmarked COPs also sold on Amazon. Because the moment I installed these, my 08 F250 was back in the game and no codes and no misfires or lags! Review or cheap china product: I've changed plugs and COPs on multiple vehicles over the years, namely a 2005 Mustang GT, 2001 Expedition, and my current 2008 f250 5.4ltr, and plugs on my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee, a 1995 Chevy k3500, and a 2005 Buick LaCrosse, I also have a great $350 Bosch code reader. Im a general contractor, I do mixed driving all the time, I often have some kind of payload or a cargo trailer. I purchased my 08 f250 5.4ltr in mid sept 2016, with 120k miles on IG. I knew that it was overdue for new plugs and COPs, and other things. In late October the engine threw codes, spark and cop problems. I purchased oem plugs from my local autozone and I desperately needed to save money at that time, and decided against purchasing COPs I knew would work 100% from the local guy's and purchased online. I was worried at the time this product had only 3 reviews, and the other product that are yellow had several hundred reviews, but they cost significantly more. I figure: it's just a work truck, not a performance build. I waited to do all the installation at once. The moment after I was done and cleared all codes and even disconnected the battery for 10 minutes to wipe the computer, I reconnected and turned the engine over and it took forever to get it going. It wasn't a battery issue, I had the dealer put in a new one. My truck then acted like it was a manual and I didn't know how to drive and kept the clutch in too long, it stalled every time it had to accelerate. I would later learn I had to have the truck warmed up every morning similar to a disel otherwise when I pressed the gas it would roll, chok and and misfire for 5+ seconds before finally starting to accelerate like a 1989 geo metro losing gear. I couldn't merge into traffic safely anymore. When it idled I could hear it misfire and rock between below 500 RPMS and it's normal idel of about 750 RPMs. It routinely died if I didn't feather the gas petal if I was reversing upna hill, say from a convenience store sloped parking space. I could barely make it hit 20 MPh unloaded and not under tow when going up a hill of really any steepness. And the engine breaking built into the truck for when I did tow also was malfunctioning. My transmission would routinely over work itself to make up for the lack of power and constant misfire and seemingly bad timing of the engine, it would reve up to 5k but then stall until I feathered the gas pedal and allowed the engines actual speed to catch up. When the weather was below freezing all of these problems became even worse! I had to deal with this for months due to money and work conflicts: the code reader told me the same error codes as before. It ran WORSE than with the original faulty COPS that I purchased it with. The electrical tests seemed fine. Finally I purchased the more downside higher performance yellow COP kit, and just installed it. On a 30 mile mixed driving test drive, with multiple stops stop lights and parking, up hills and down hills, high RPM and not, here's no issue. You would think I put in a supercharger. And no codes: what a dangerous, irresponsible waste of money these parts are. The white residue on two of these 4 month old COPs is from the constant misfires. **** end***

Very easy to put on but the spark plug was another story. I have a 2008 Lincoln Navigator and the motor craft spark plugs are known to break off. I followed the instruction to removal to the book and still manage to brake 4 spark plugs, thus requiring the ford spark plug removal kit for 99. It was very weird because all 4 broke off on the left but the other 5 on the right came out with no problem and with sparking carbonator cleaning in first and letting it sit for 6 hours soaking. They still broke off. Another issue I ran into was that a rock.. I and I mean the perfect rock was inside the spark plug well and was wedged into the spark plug. it had been there for a long time and could of been causing the problems with the spark plug becase the rock was burnt. It had to be removed because the ratchet would not go on the bolt to get the spark plug out. Well it took about and hour and we came up with a solution. We grind down an allen wrench down so that it can go below the spark plug bolt and set under the rock. I then use vice grips needle nose to grab the allen wrench and then a metal rode to pull up on the vice grips. Well the metal rod broke. I then use a tire iron and with one big pull up it popped out. The rock was so wedge into the spark plug that it would not move and this was the only way to get it out. I sucked it up with a vacuum that I made with a big hard straw on it and presto we could then get to the bolt. Food for thought if you run into this same problem. I do not know how a rock got into there bout after an hour I was glad to have it removed. Well a little wiser and filling very accomplished, I removed the four broken spark plugs with the tool. It is very easy to use but you need to make sure you push the broken spark plug all the way down using the tool so other tool can grad onto it. It may require you to stop and wind the screw back up and start again. The truck runs like new again and I have seen a big notice on the response and no more misfires. I do not know about the gas for now so I will have to watch and see if it does save gas but for power its very noticeable on the navigator.

worked great on my 2004 ford f150 and way cheaper than the originals.

Instaladas en Ford Explorer 4.6 V8 de 3V. Me ayudarón a resolver un problema de falla de CAN de transmisión y ABS causado por las bobinas del lado derecho. La señal de las bobinas interfiere con los cables del CAN de la transmisión que pasan por encima de las bobinas 3 y 4 del V8 4.6. Además mi motor presentaba ciertos tambaleos por causa de encendidos disparejos. Compre el kit completo de 8 unidades y santo remedio. AL instante desaparecieron los cabeceos del motor, mejoró notablemente la respuesta del motor y la falla del CAN de transmisión desapareció. El precio fue insuperable, ya que cada bobina original de motorcraft cuesta $1600.00 y compré el kit en Amazon por tan solo $2600.00. Este kit te sirve para bobinas de capuchón negro o café, en mi caso debería haber comprado las 140033E con el capcuchon de color café, pero el precio se triplicaba a $6600.00, simplemente compré estas y les cambie los capuchones estirando un poco el resorte del nucleo y quedó perfecta. Ahí te aspo el truco si tu motor trae capuchón café, las puedes usar sin problemas, solo cambia el capuchón. Las recomiendo ampliamente, en los motores Ford sí o sí, es necesario tarer lds bobinas al 100 ya que son de inyección directa y se demanda mucho el uso del dispositivo. Ojo que de no darles un buen mantenimiento se daña la computadora y está difíciles de conseguir. Yo tardé 3 años en conseguir la que debía llevar mi motor, así que no te la juegues, si te fallan una o dos bobinas, piensa en poner el kit de 8, te ahorrarás muchos problemas de respuesta y cabeceo, a la vez que estarás protegiendo el circuito de activación de la computadora. Ojo que las bobinas de $300.00 pesos solo sirven para una emergencia y no para el funcionamiento a largo plazo.

Hola buenas tardes te comento que una bobina se fracturó la base donde se atonilla me podrías vender una gracias

Ordered wrong part # need coils ending in 32 not 33 but the right ones work great

had the jerking problem on my 06 f150 5.4 These coils solved my problem. And these really throttle up !!!